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Eating in New Mexico: Hispanics
20,000 years of hunting, gathering, raising, growing, cooking and eating in The Land of Enchantment



Hispanic people have been an important part of New Mexico food heritage since the first explorers and settlers arrived in the 16th century.

Some 100 years before the pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock, Spanish explorers made their way into present-day New Mexico. In 1532, Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca led the first European expedition into the region. Other explorers quickly followed, inspired by rumors that he had discovered Seven Cities of Gold. Some historians believe that the golden glow of adobe pueblos, their mica-inflected clay inflamed by the setting sun, created an optical illusion that spawned the belief that such a place existed.

In 1540, Francisco Vázquez de Coronado arrived at Hawikuh, a Zuni Pueblo, with an advance party of cavalrymen. They quickly clashed with the Zunis, forcing them to flee from their homes. Thus began the colonization of New Mexico, with a cohort of soldiers and priests arriving over the next 140 years to convert the Native Americans to Catholicism and induct them into the ways of Spanish culture.

From the dawn of the 16th century, supplies and communications came into the area along El Camino Real, the Royal Road stretching 2,000 miles (3,220km) from Mexico City to Santa Fe. Caravans of Spanish colonizers making the six-month trek northward brought mining and forging techniques to the Indians, teaching them to use metals for weapons, tools, and art.

They also brought cattle and sheep and taught the Indians how to raise them. They introduced horses, which would eventually be used in warfare against them. They even brought the wheel, opening the door to a new world of technology.

Eventually, resentment over the imposition of Spanish culture and the repression of indigenous religions boiled over in the highly organized Pueblo Revolt of 1680. On August 9, Indians throughout the region overthrew their colonizers, burned their churches, and killed their priests.

San Miguel Mission Chapel
The oldest church still in use in the United States, this simple earth-hue adobe structure was built in the early 17th century by the Tlaxcalan Indians of Mexico, who came to New Mexico as servants of the Spanish. Badly damaged in the 1680 Pueblo Revolt, the structure was restored and enlarged in 1710.

After 12 years the Spanish returned; their recolonization succeeded because they had learned to tolerate the practice of native religion along with Catholicism. Worship in today's Pueblos is a fascinating blend of the two ways of honoring and petitioning the Creator. For example, each Pueblo celebrates the feast day of its patron saint with a day of native ceremonial dancing.

Yet part of New Mexico's charm is that the old ways are not completely cast aside in favor of the new; lifestyles and working skills from the 16th to the 21st centuries can be found today throughout the state.

Hispanic influence is apparent in the adobe architecture, folk-art specialties like retablos and carved wooden bultos, and the Spanish words like arroyo, portal, vigas, and canales to describe features of the land and the architecture. It shines forth in the farolitos that line the roofs and adobe walls at Christmastime. It permeates the air with the incense-like aroma of piñon fires. It rings out in flamenco music and Spanish-language radio and television broadcasts.

Although English is the primary language of the state, 38 percent of the population is of Hispanic origin, while nine percent is Native American. Many place names, as well as family names, are Spanish. The Spanish spoken in New Mexico has traces of its origins in medieval times. Because of the isolation of the mountain villages, contact with spoken English was minimal until relatively recently, and contact with a modernizing Spain virtually nonexistent. Today you'll find remnants of Old Spain in the vocabulary and names still in use in these remote villages.




El Camino Real International Heritage Center

El Camino Real International Heritage Center, a joint project of New Mexico State Monuments and the United States Bureau of Land Management and supported by the El Camino Real International Heritage Center Foundation, opens as the sixth New mexico State Monument. The state-of-the art facility rises from the pristine desert, as different from its environment as from the other state monuments. Rather than the story of a fort, a battle waged or a history borne upon its premise, the International Heritage Center presents a 400-year history of trade and cultural exchange between Mexico, America, Spain, Europe and Asia.

The Monument presents an historic corridor of trade, immigration and ideas. This corridor originated as a series of indigenous trails used to exchange goods between Mesoamericans and Native Americans, centuries before the arrival of the Spanish. The Spanish expanded the northern portion of the road, claiming the New Mexico Territory for the Spanish crown. El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro, the Royal Road of the Interior Lands, is recognized as the first European road in North America and one of the most important historic trails in the United States. It is also one of New Mexico's most important cultural treasures.

Present day I-25 parallels the historic camino and continues to serve as an economically viable and important north/south corridor for trade, commerce and cultural exchange.

The mission of the Heritage Center is to inspire all people to engage in lifetime learning about El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro - its worldwide impact and importance in linking the diversity of culture, people, and place to the past, present, and future.

Learn more here.


El Rancho de las Golondrinas is a living historic farm museum

photo credits: Los Golondrinas website

El Rancho de las Golondrinas one of New Mexico's premier food heritage sites is located on 200 acres in a rural farming valley just south of Santa Fe, New Mexico. The museum, dedicated to the heritage and culture of Spanish Colonial New Mexico, opened in 1972. Original colonial buildings on the site date from the early 18th century. In addition, historic buildings from other parts of northern New Mexico have been reconstructed at Las Golondrinas. Villagers clothed in the styles of the times show how life was lived in early New Mexico. Special festivals and theme weekends offer visitors an in-depth look into the celebrations, music, dance and many other aspects of life in the period when this part of the United States was ruled by Spain and Mexico.

El Rancho de las Golondrinas (The Ranch of the Swallows) was a paraje on El Camino Real from Mexico City through Chihuahua to Old Santa Fe. Acquired by Miguel Vega y Coca about 1710, it is one of the most historic ranches in the southwest. The daughters of Vega y Coca inter-married with the Baca family and the property subsequently passed to their descendants. In the diaries and reports of yesteryear, "el paraje de las Golondrinas" is often mentioned. It became the last encampment before reaching Santa Fe, the end of the long journey on horseback or by carretas from far away Mexico City. Juan Bautista de Anza, Governor of New Mexico in 1778, searching for a direct route to Arizpe, Sonora, Mexico, spent the night here with a one hundred fifty-one man expedition.


El Rancho de las Golondrinas grew out of the vision of the Curtin-Paloheimo family, who acquired the property in the early 1930s. Existing historic buildings were restored, authentic structures erected on old foundations and related buildings brought in from other sites. Now, an 18th century placita house complete with defensive tower, a 19th century home and all of its outbuildings, a molasses mill, a threshing ground, several primitive water mills, a blacksmith shop, a wheelwright shop, a winery and vineyards depict many of the essential elements of Spanish Colonial culture. The Sierra Village portrays life as it was lived in the mountainous regions of New Mexico. A morada, descansos, a Campo Santo and an Oratorio testify to the deep religious faith that sustained the early settlers.

Through living history, El Rancho de las Golondrinas hopes to foster understanding of, respect for and pride in the language, culture and history of Spanish Colonial New Mexico. Particular emphasis is placed on its use as an educational facility. It welcomes teachers and students for tours, workshops, seminars and other learning experiences. The museum is now owned and operated by the El Rancho de las Golondrinas Charitable Trust, a non-profit entity. It is a member of the Association for Living Historical Farms and Agricultural Museums (ALHFAM).

Los Golondrinas website

Los Golondrinas park map


 

Twenty years before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth, Massachusetts, hardy Spanish pioneers were already settling the southwestern part of the United States. One of their settlements was El Rancho de las Golondrinas---a self-sufficient fort and an inn for travelers on El Camino Real---near what is now Santa Fe, NM. Las Golondrinas, now a living historic farm community museum, features volunteers who reinact everyday life in the mid-1700's for visitors. Spanish Pioneers of the Southwest by Joan Anderson and photographs taken at Las Golondrinas by George Ancona features these volunteer interpreters to illustrate daily life.

 


Typical mealtime scene in a Spanish Colonial New Mexico home. Settlers had little furniture. Floors were hard packed earth. An open hearth was used both for cooking and heating.

 


Sleeping arrangements in the same room.

 


Farm chores included regulating irrigation ditch flow, feeding, milking and sheering livestock.

 

 


A wood carving of San Ysidro is paraded from the village church down to the irrigation ditch. The statue of the saint is blessed before being placed on the altar of a tiny chapel next to newly planted fields. The villagers chant: "San Ysidro, land tiller; protect our crops from pests and storms; SanYsidro, golden whiskered; Pray to God; To send us rain in torrents.

San Ysidro remains a popular subject for New Mexican wood carvers.


Leopoldo Garcia with San Ysidro carving.

 


About San Ysidro: Patron Saint of Farmers
San Ysidro carving (Colorado Springs Fine Arts Center)

Isidore was born to very poor parents near Madrid, about the year 1070. He was in the service of the wealthy Madrid landowner Juan de Vargas on a farm in the vicinity of Madrid. Juan de Vargas would later make him bailiff of his entire estate of Lower Caramanca.


San Isidro retablo (wooden painting of a saint) by Catherine Ferguson

Every morning before going to work, Isidore was accustomed to hearing a Mass at one of the churches in Madrid. One day his fellow-laborers complained to their master that Isidore was always late for work in the morning. Upon investigation, so runs the legend, the master found Isidore at prayer while an angel was doing the ploughing for him.


Image credit

On another occasion, his master saw an angel ploughing on either side of him, so that Isidore's work was equal to that of three of his fellow-labourers. Isidore is also said to have brought back to life his master's deceased daughter, and to have caused a fountain of fresh water to burst from the dry earth in order to quench his master's thirst.

His master Iván de Vargas's house in Madrid is now a museum with temporary exhibitions on Madrilenian subjects, as well as on the life of the saint.

Isidore is widely venerated as the patron saint of peasants and day laborers, as he had been one. In 1947, at the request of the National Catholic Rural Life Conference, he was officially named patron of farmers, with a feast day on March 22 in all dioceses of the US, with a proper Mass and Office.

More about San Isidro here.


Origins of the US Cattle Industry

 


Origins of the Cowboy

 


Sheep Herding


About the National Hispanic Cultural Center


National Hispanic Cultual Center Plaza's fountain recalling irrigation canals
developed by early Spanish Colonial settlers.

The National Hispanic Cultural Center (NHCC) is dedicated to the study, advancement, and presentation of Hispanic culture, arts, and humanities. Since its grand opening in 2000, the NHCC has staged over 20 art exhibitions and 400 programs in the visual, performing, and literary arts. Programs have featured local, national and international artists, scholars and entertainers. The NHCC provides venues for visitors to learn about Hispanic culture throughout the world.

In 1998, a sixteen-acre site was chosen for the $34 million project along the east side of the Rio Grande River in the heart of the historic Barelas neighborhood in Albuquerque. Since then the project has grown to encompass over 50 acres with an estimated cost of over $50 million. Barelas, a traditionally Hispanic neighborhood, has historically been a crossroads for New Mexico’s people. The community was settled for its proximity to a natural ford in the Rio Grande river and the Camino Real, the Spanish colonial era Royal Road used primarily for trade between Mexico and northern New Mexico.

The architectural design of the NHCC has been created to accommodate a wealth of cultural programs in the visual, performing, media and literary arts. The various buildings and structures speak to the history and culture of hispanidad with features recalling styles from Spain, Mesoamerica and early New Mexico.

The National Hispanic Cultural Center enjoys the broad support of the New Mexico State Legislature as well as the federal government. The NHCC is part of the State of New Mexico’s Department of Cultural Affairs along with seven other state museums and six state monuments.

The Cultural Center will offer visitors an opportunity to sample cuisine from the Hispanic world in a restaurant located on the premises.A teaching kitchen will provide the aficionado of Hispanic cuisine the chance to learn time-honored epicurean secrets. The Culinary Arts program promises to be a popular attraction for visitors. It will play an important role in the sharing and preservation of the varied and delicious history of Hispanic food from around the world.

Learn more about the National Hispanic Cultural Center here.

 


 



New Mexican Cuisine

NM Food Heritage Home

NM Food Heritage Sites

First New Mexicans Foods

Hispanic Foods

Anglo & Others Foods

 

A Global Food Heritage Project


 

 

 


Image credits (above left to right): Zuni Pueblo waffle garden photo; Hatch chile pepper field; NM specialties map; chuckwagon; typical NM dishes