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Eating in New Mexico: Anglos & Others
20,000 years of hunting, gathering, raising, growing, cooking and eating in The Land of Enchantment

Anglos in New Mexico roughly refers to any person of Non-Hispanic or Native American ancestry. The term "Anglo" refers to people who came into New Mexico from the eastern or western parts of the USA. English, not Spanish, was their first or second language.

Here's an article about the "melting pot" that has always been Santa Fe, but might as well refer to "Anglos" across the entire state.

A Footnote on "Anglos"
In much of the country,"Anglo" is the short form for "WASP" -- white Anglo-Saxon Protestant. In Santa Fe, however, "Anglo" takes on a variety of shades, from African American to Asian, Arab to Jew. As we've mentioned elsewhere in this guide, the term as generally used in New Mexico refers to anyone who's not Hispanic or Native American, regardless of race or heritage. Because that embraces so many cultures, it's difficult to define. But it's fun exploring the stereotypes. They include wealthy retirees or celebrities, perhaps buying their second or third home; trust-fund babies -- age is unimportant -- who come here to "find themselves;" New Age adherents in search of a mystical experience and hoping to find one by sheer proximity to Native Americans; hippies who arrived in the '60s and never left -- some of them still hippies, others successful professionals or entrepreneurs; artists and writers looking for their muse; ski bums who work three seasons a year to play on the slopes all winter. We're sure everyone in Santa Fe could come up with a few stereotypes of its own.

Outside the cultural cliches are the "Anglos" who have lived here all their lives, some with roots going back 150 years to the Santa Fe Trail. Others are regular working stiffs who personally, or whose parents, chose Santa Fe as their home because of its physical beauty and fascinating blend of cultures. In the mix are pockets of ethnic communities including Tibetans, who have strong political support here in their fight to reclaim their homeland from China; Chinese, many of whom arrived here in the 19th century with the railroad; African-Americans, who account for 0.6 percent of the population; Ashkenazy Jews, whose ancestors helped blaze the Santa Fe Trail; scientists of all backgrounds who work at Los Alamos National Laboratory; and people of literally dozens of other ancestries from Afghanistan to Zimbabwe. Santa Fe is its own melting pot and becoming more so every year as people from one end of the country to the other, one end of the world to the other, discover all it has to offer. (source)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Clayton is a nifty small town, once a place the museum’s enthusiastic director, D.Ray Blakeley, as a teenager,“couldn’t wait to get out of.” Today the town boasts a thriving citizenry who banded together just a few years ago to buy the historic Eklund Hotel.

A major watering hole for generations, the Eklund was crumbling, its dining room still open but its hotel closed. ( Eklund has been serving food continuously since the turn of the century, which makes it an important community food heritage site.)

We came aross a menu from the Eklund at the Herzstein Museum, dating back to Thanksgiving 1917. This bit of paper ephemera tied in perfectly with our food history theme. As you can see below, oyster cocktail tops the list--in those days fresh oysters were shipped by rail in barrels and the oysters were "fed" with corn meal to keep them alive on the long trek west. Celery hearts, a food from the Eastern hemisphere, came after the oysters, along with olives, another native of the other side of the world. Then, tomato soup created from one of the western hemisphere's most delectable fruits. The main offering, of course, is turkey, a favorite native game.

 

Now the Eklund is renovated and lively, welcoming visitors who tend to make it a regular stop on their way somewhere else.


 

 

 

 

 


Some "Anglos" who have made a contribution to New Mexico food

   

Paul Bosland professor of horticulture and director of the Chile Pepper Institute at New Mexico State University in Las Cruces, has a reputation as one of the top chile breeders in the world. Paul, smiling and soft spoken, continues his work of developing new varieties of chile that overcome environmental challenges from every quarter.

Concentration at NMSU is on five breeding programs: green varieties, red varieties, paprika (used for food coloring), cayenne, and different colored ornamental varieties. The goal is to give New Mexico farmers a three-year edge on the competition because the seed will be ultimately made available to other growers, even in other countries.

"And," as Paul explains, "I am still a professor and I work closely with my graduate students in their masters and doctorate programs. I have had students from all over the world; currently I have graduate students from Hungary, Nepal, and Senegal. It is a good feeling to see these students develop into scientists who will help to solve some of the world’s food production problems."

Paul recently won a distinguished Regents Professorship, an award that recognizes faculty who have made outstanding contributions to the university’s mission as a land-grant university. The award carries an annual $12,500 stipend. Paul, in addition to developing numerous varieties of ‘NuMex’ chiles, is the coauthor of The Pepper Garden and Peppers of the World.

Dave Dewitt is one of the foremost authorities in the world on chile peppers and spicy foods. Dave researched and wrote numerous magazine and newspaper articles on chile peppers in the late 1970's. In 1984, St. Martin's Press published his first cookbook, The Fiery Cuisines, co- authored with Nancy Gerlach. That book is still in print more than seventeen years later by Ten Speed Press. In 1987, Dave and Nancy approached a local publisher, and the three launched Chile Pepper magazine with a mere 212 subscribers. By 1995, with Dave as the editor-in-chief, the magazine had surpassed 50,000 subscribers with a total circulation exceeding 80,000. The magazine was sold in1996 and Dave launched Fiery Foods & Barbecue Business Magazine, a trade publication. The earlier Chile Pepper magazine project led to numerous books, including The Whole Chile Pepper Book (Little, Brown, 1990), which now has nearly 100,000 copies in print and recently had its tenth printing. Dave has 31 published books to his credit and continues to write books at the rate of one or two a year. He is also producer of the National Fiery Foods & Barbecue Show, the trade show for the multi-billion dollar Fiery Foods and Barbecue industries, now in its 13th year. His book The Chile Pepper Encyclopedia (William Morrow, 1999) won the award “Best Spice Book in English” at the 1999 World Cookbook Awards at Versailles. His latest book, again with Nancy Gerlach, is Barbecue Inferno: Cooking with Chile Peppers on the Grill (Ten Speed Press, 2001).Other notable books by Dave and his co-authors include: The Pepper Garden, Peppers of the World, Hot & Spicy & Meatless, The Healing Powers of Peppers, and The Hot Sauce Bible. In 1995, his book, A World of Curries, was nominated for a James Beard Award. Dave is co- producer, writer, and host of Heat Up Your Life!, a three-part video documentary series on chile peppers and spicy foods that will run on PBS or a cable channel. He is also publisher of the Fiery Foods & Barbecue Super Site, at www.fiery-foods.com.

Katherine Kagel is the founder of Cafe Pasqual, named for the folk saint of Mexican and New Mexican kitchens and cooks, San Pasqual. The historic pueblo-style adobe is located one block southwest of the plaza, in the heart of downtown Santa Fe. The festive dining room is lined with hand-painted Mexican tiles and murals by the renowned Mexican painter Leovigildo Martinez, depicting the moon reveling at her fiesta. Pasqual's is a small cafe by any standards, seating only fifty at a time, but each day the kitchen makes enormous quantities of food. They bake dozens of loaves of bread, churn gallons of ice cream, create chile sauces by the potful, hand-chop the ingredients for crocks of salsas, and perform countless other operations.

 

Deborah Madison founding chef of Greens Restaurant in San Francisco, has garnered high praise from some of the luminaries of the cookbook world. Marion Cunningham has said, “If I could have only one book on the subject of vegetables, Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone would be it.” Alice Waters says, “She writes the same way she cooks and gardens: with passion and knowledge.” And Martha Rose Shulman writes, “Her recipes bring so much flavor, beauty, and excitement to the plate, but with so little fuss.”

Willem Malten owner of Cloud Cliff bakery, organic food promoter and filmmaker was born in Amsterdam, Netherlands in 1955. From 1981-1984 he lived, worked and meditated as a Zen Monk at the Zen Center and at the Tassajara Zen Monastery in California

In 1984 Willem Malten started the Cloud Cliff –bakery, café, artspace -in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Cloud Cliff has grown into a thriving business with about 40 employees. It specializes in organic produce. As long term board member of the Santa Fe Farmers Market and manager of Cloud Cliff, Willem Malten was instrumental in setting up the Northern New Mexico Organic Wheat Project, a rural revitalization program for small family farmers aimed at preserving genetic diversity and fertile farmlands. It started in 1994 and is still very active. In 1998 Malten was commissioned by the New Mexico Department of Agriculture to make a movie about the Wheat Project called ‘The Staff of Life’. It won immediate statewide acclaim, and stimulated similar projects in Northern California, Oregon and also Vermont.

Mark Miller founder of Coyote Cafe and promoter of Southwest/New Mexican cuisine world-wide.

 

Lynn Walters initiated Cooking with Kids in 1995, based on food acceptance research conducted by Antonia Demas, Ph.D., and inspired by the work of Cookshop and The Hartford Food System. Cooking with Kids grew out of the efforts of a local student nutrition advisory council to improve school food. The program began as a volunteer effort in two public elementary schools in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Over 4,000 Kindergarten through sixth grade students in eleven schools now participate in the program. We are encouraged by the consistent support from public and private sources, Santa Fe Public Schools, and the generosity of the philanthropic community.


Groceries & Supermarkets

When the Love brothers moved to southeastern New Mexico in 1900, they founded the City of Lovington. Lovington is located on the land that Robert F. Love homesteaded in 1903. The first business in Lovington was the Jim B. Love Grocery Store, built by Robert's brother in 1908, and the post office was set up in the store.
In 1910, a successful attempt to draw new settlers was made by offering free lots to families with children. Lovington was appointed as the county seat in 1917, which assured the community's future prosperity. The city was incorporated in 1918.
It was the initiative of leaders of the community that brought rail service to the area. Initially, their efforts did not entice the railroads; but the discovery of oil and gas did. The impact of the oil industry was most prevalent during the 1940's and 1950's with a 12,000 foot deep oil production well, the "Sawyer Discovery."
Before the discovery of oil and gas, the community was primarily involved in ranching and farming. Lovington's lifestyles and labor force were shaped by the new industry. The oil and gas industry eventually declined, leaving a lasting impression. However, many businesses survived and others provided gradual but steady growth.



New Mexican Cuisine

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First New Mexicans Foods

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Anglo & Others Foods

 

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