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English Christmas Foods & Customs

The Kissing Bough

Before the introduction of the Christmas tree into England in the 19th century, the Kissing Bough or Bunch, was the chief feature of the festive decorations. Made of wire hoops wreathed with foliage in a hemisphere, it was hung with apples, ribbons and evergreens. The traditional bunch of mistletoe hung from the center. Candles were fixed around the middle hoop and lit on Christmas Eve to mark the beginning of the Twelve Days of Christmas. Carols were sung under the Kissing Bough and Mummers performed.


Muriel Broderick, artist

Twelfth Night Customs in Merrie Old England:
Wassailing the Apple-Trees

Wassailing the Apple-trees was once popular in fruit-growing districts of England. It took place either on old Christmas Eve (January 5), on Old Twelfth Night, or on New Year's Eve. A bowl of cider or spiced ale was carried to the orchard, where the wassail was drunk, and the lees poured over the roots of the trees.

Horns were blown, kettles banged and guns fired to frighten away evil spirits, while a boy, representing bird, (the spirit of the tree), would climb into the branches and be fed with cake. A traditional song was sung, of which this is a variant, "Apples and pears with right good corn, Come in plenty to everyone, Eat and drink good cake and hot ale, Give Earth to drink and she'll not fail."

Twelfth Night Cake

In the days when Christmas was kept in the "good old-fashioned way," the Twelfth Night celebrations marked the last of the twelve days of feasting and jollification following the Festival itself. It was on Twelfth Night that some of the famous cake, in which was hidden a bean and a pea, was handed to every guest. The man and woman lucky enough to find these in their portions were acclaimed respectively "King of the Bean" and "Queen of the Pea," and presided over the revels which followed.

By the 17th and 18th centuries the cake itself was often made into elaborate and even fantastic shapes, such as ships and castles, with guns which could be fired. As late as in the 19th confectioners' shops were lit up on Twelfth Night to display cakes.

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