Exhibits | Seasonal Exhibits | Special Exhibits | Permanent Exhibits | FOOD Museum Home

The History & Art of Being FAT

Fat Culture

Who Is Fat? It Depends on Culture by Natalie Angier

Until recently, the furthest worry from most human hearts was too much body to bear. Calories were scarce, physical labor was hard, and most people were as lean as greyhounds.

"For the millions of years of our evolution, there wasn't much food around, so our bodies are designed to keep from losing weight," said Dr. Fitzgibbon at Northwestern. "When we start to lose weight, our metabolism slows and our appetite increases — we burn less and we want more."

But the body is not nearly as efficient at shedding excess weight. Some evolutionary biologists believe that the difficulty of getting enough calories is one reason why humans have a preference for rich, fatty foods — if there's a choice between a marbled hunk of fawn thigh or a handful of rice, our sinewy ancestors did well to go for the meat.

That may be one reason some of the earliest depictions of human beings are fabulously fat. A number of the famed Venus figurines, palm-size statuettes carved between 20,000 and 30,000 years ago, depict women with corpulent thighs, buttocks, breasts and bellies, and estimated body mass indexes well over 30.

As a rule, archaeologists say, only the most important elements of ancient life and society were immortalized in stone, suggesting that the obese women who served as models for the figurines were either royalty, or were accorded superhuman powers — specifically, the power never to go hungry.

Among the ancient Greeks and Romans, attitudes toward body weight became more complex, said Dr. Barton J. Blinder, a professor of psychiatry and human behavior at the University of California at Irvine.

On the one hand, plumpness, particularly in women, was seen as desirable, a sign of well-being and fertility, and the goddesses were often depicted as hefty matrons.

On the other hand, early physicians like Hippocrates and Galen recognized that too much fat was unhealthy. Aristophanes, the comic playwright, wrote in the fifth century B.C. that obese men were "bloated, gross, and preseniled fat rogues with big bellies and dropsical legs, whose toes by the gout are tormented."

The early Christians also looked scornfully upon the obese, counting gluttony as one of the seven deadly sins.

In some medieval paintings, sinners were shown as fat and Christ's disciples as slender. And whether in Gothic art or its Victorian recrudescence, the attenuated, El Grecoesque morphology has often been equated with holiness, the sign of an ascetic life that eschews the carnal pleasures of the body in favor of the transcendent, fat-free pleasures of the soul.

To the common folk, however, the lure of portliness beckoned. "On balance, until fairly recently many societies put considerable value in plumpness," said Dr. Peter N. Stearns, the provost of George Mason University in Fairfax, Va., and the author of "Fat History: Bodies and Beauty in the Modern West."

"To be a good 20 to 40 pounds above what we would now consider desirable was seen as a sign of prosperity," Dr. Stearns said. "Thin people were regarded with suspicion, as ugly. To say that Cassius had a `lean and hungry look' was not a compliment."

The artist who best captured the sensuality of corpulence was the Baroque painter Peter Paul Rubens. A Rubens woman, according to the art historian Sir Kenneth Clark, is "plump and pearly," while to Richard Klein, author of "Eat Fat," she is a "luscious fat girl" who stands for "the whole weight and wealth of human nature."

Oh, to be Rubenesque.

Until the beginning of the 20th century, Dr. Stearns said, "there were more programs to help people gain weight than the reverse."

In non-Western cultures, fatness often was associated with high status. Polynesian kings were frequently quite fat, while the girls of Banyankole in East Africa were fattened in preparation for marriage like so many Christmas geese. Dr. Watson of Harvard said that when he began doing field work in Hong Kong in the 1960's, women who were slender would not have been marriageable. Neither would highly muscular young men.

"Men who were heavily muscled were considered the lowest of laborers," he said. "They were the ones who had to lift backbreaking loads for a living, and their prospects were dim."

Read the full report here.


Anthropology of Fat:

Our complicated relations with fat: still revered in parts of the world and gaining acceptance in places where overweight people have been recently reviled.

 

Fat: The Anthropology of an Obsession, review by Publishers Weekly:

"This engaging collection of essays by academic anthropologists examines fat as a symbol of aesthetics, social status, economic success and cultural belonging. Many of the pieces look at foreign societies or marginal subcultures that, contrary to the fat-phobic Western norm, view fat as a sign of beauty, health and prosperity.

Rebecca Popenoe studies villages in Niger where women try to be as fat as possible, while Kulick and Matti Bunzl explore the world of fat porn. Joan Gross writes about phat rappers whose girth is taken as evidence of masculine potency and financial success, and Julia Harrison writes about the role of Spam in the construction of Native Hawaiian identity. Mary Weismantel probes Andean legends of white fat-sucking vampires—metaphors, she thinks, for the exploitation of Indian communities by the elite.

Articles on mainstream Western attitudes toward fat uncover even more strangeness. Fanny Ambjörnsson details the byzantine ways Swedish high school girls talk about fat; Kulick and Thaïs Machado-Borges expose the odd Brazilian enthusiasm for intestinal leakage as proof that fat-dissolving pills are working; and Margaret Wilson asks why Starbucks patrons order their coffee with skim milk—only to dump whipped cream on top."

Rebecca Poponoe in Fat: the anthropology of an obsession reports on the complex connection between fat, social status, prosperity and health in Niger. The following BBC report investigates the fattening of girls to enhance their marital chances in Mauritania.


Mauritania's 'wife-fattening' farm by Pascale Harter BBC, Mauritania


"Obesity is so revered among Mauritania's white Moor Arab population that the young girls are sometimes force-fed to obtain a weight the government has described as "life-threatening".

A generation ago, over a third of women in the country were force-fed as children - Mauritania is one of the few African countries where, on average, girls receive more food than boys."


Fat Acceptance Movement

 

The National Association to Advance Fat Acceptance (NAAFA) believes that a preference for a fat partner is as valid as any other preference based on physical characteristics, such as a particular height, eye color, or hair color. Here is the beginning of their report.

"At different times throughout history, the fat figure was looked upon as the ideal, desirable figure. For example, at the turn of the century, Lillian Russell -- at a weight of over 200 pounds -- was a reigning sex symbol. Today, the American cultural aesthetic of beauty ranges from the thin supermodel whose figure's proportions are unrepresentative of the naturally occurring shape of the human female, to an emaciated, sunken-eyed look termed "heroin chic."

Historically, men have gained credibility from their accumulated wealth and power, and at different times throughout history, fatness was seen as an indicator of wealth and abundance, and thus viewed as desirable.

These cultural standards of attractiveness are fueled, in large part, by a multi-billion-dollar commercial weight loss industry that sells people on dissatisfaction with their bodies, by ultra-chic actors and actresses portraying love interests in television and movies, and by manufacturers selling products by linking the concept of conventional beauty and the consumer's self-worth. "

 

Some Q & A from NAAFA website:

WHY SHOULD I SUPPORT NAAFA?
An estimated 38 million Americans are significantly heavier than average, and face societal and institutional bias because of their size. Fat people are discriminated against in employment, education, access to public accommodations, and access to adequate medical care. In addition, fat people are stigmatized, and are the victims of tasteless jokes and assaults on their dignity. Despite evidence that 95-98% of diets fail over three years, our thin-obsessed society continues to believe that fat people are at fault for their size.

NAAFA is the only national membership organization fighting to end size discrimination, educating the public, and working to empower fat people. People all sizes of large should support NAAFA's work in combating size discrimination. People of average size who believe that size discrimination is wrong should ally themselves with the size acceptance movement.


BUT ISN'T IT UNHEALTHY TO BE FAT?
Just being fat does not signify poor health. In fact, research shows that the health risks once associated with weight may instead by attributable to yo-yo dieting. Because fatness is most often caused by heredity and dieting history, and because 95-98% of all diets fail over three years, it is becoming apparent that remaining at a high, but stable weight and concentrating on personal fitness rather than thinness may be the healthiest way to deal with the propensity to be fat.

We must also consider that in our society, it is very difficult for fat people to stay healthy and become fit. Due to prejudicial medical treatment and harassment by health care professionals, many fat people do not receive adequate preventative health care, and procrastinate seeking treatment when there is a medical problem. In addition, many fat people do not feel comfortable participating in activities that would lead to a greater level of fitness due to social stigma.

People of all sizes can strive for fitness by making sensible food choices, following an exercise program, and getting regular check-ups.

WHY DO WE USE THE WORD "FAT" SO FREELY?
"Fat" is not a four-letter word. It is an adjective, like short, tall, thin, or blonde. While society has given it a derogatory meaning, we find that identifying ourselves as "fat" is an important step in casting off the shame we have been taught to feel about our bodies.

 

NAAFA Convention 2005

Healthy Habits For Heavier Americans

(CBS 5) More than five hundred large people from around the nation flocked to San Mateo this week.

The National Association to Advance Fat Acceptance sponsored the event designed to celebrate larger individuals.

“I love the F word, love it,” says attendee Marilyn Wann.

But even for people happy to be heavy, health experts say it is important to stay fit. So no matter your weight, there are still some steps you can take to improve your overall health.

"I was huffing and puffing, and I thought I was going to have a heart attack before I hit 40,” Sandy Shaffer says.

Shaffer saw a weight loss specialist, who recommended exercise.

"My cholesterol level dropped 40 points when I started exercising,” Shaffer. “My blood pressure went down when I started exercising. These were results I never got all those years of dieting."


Cinematic Fat


Shallow Hal a 2001 film starring Gwyneth Paltrow (below) and Jack Black. The film explores the subject of beauty and fat acceptance.

The Shallow Hal website reports:

Paltrow was game for the arduous, four hours make-up process involved in donning a fat suit required for sequences where her character is seen in her actual 300 pound form.

The film makers wanted to make sure that Paltrow was identified in the multiple size suit, made with layers of foam latex and a wig. Above all, it was essential that she look like a real person and not someone they were joking about.

During the initial make up test, Paltrow decided to give the suit a trial run in a NY hotel. It was an eye-opening experience that provided critical insight into her character. "I wanted to see how well the suit worked, so I wore in in the hotel bar. I realized immediately that no one was making eye contact with me, or would even look in my direction. No one wanted to connect with me. It was a powerful, very sad and startling experience."

Read 117 reviews of this "fat-themed" film at RottenTomatoes.com



Time Magazine's report "Politics of Fat"

"These are fat times in politics. Literally. Nearly 400 obesity-related bills were introduced in state legislatures across the country last year--more than double the number in 2003. A quarter of them were passed into law, up from only 12% two years before. In Washington the word obesity appears in 56 bills introduced during the current Congress; this, the Wall Street Journal points out, is fast catching up with the number containing the word gun.

Surgeon General Richard Carmona says obesity is a greater threat than terrorism. Some public-health advocates have begun urging the government to put a warning label on soft drinks; others are calling for a "fat tax" on fast food.

When voters and the possibility of big public spending are involved, you can be sure the politicians will discover a problem. The stats are depressingly familiar: more than 60% of us are overweight, and the percentage of us who are considered obese has nearly doubled since 1980. Health-care spending attributable to obesity reached $75 billion in 2003, by some estimates, with taxpayers shelling out more than half of that through Medicare and Medicaid programs.

Last month Medicare increased its financial obligation to the problem by announcing it would cover bariatric surgery, a procedure aimed at weight loss that generally costs $25,000 for a simple case. Government researchers estimate that obesity is associated with anywhere from 100,000 to 300,000 deaths a year.

Most alarming of all, the rates of obesity among children and teens have tripled in the past 25 years. Health-care providers say they are seeing something of an epidemic of potentially lethal Type 2 diabetes, once known as the adult-onset version of the disease, among children as young as 10 and 11." Read the rest of the article here.

 

Governor Mike Huckabee has committed his state of Arkansas to a healthy diet and lifestyle. Learn about his own efforts to lose weight here.



Literary Fat


 

"The Food Artist" by Kristen McDermott

Fat? No, not fat. Not totally obese. She'd known obese people, back before the Great Reduction. She had never been really fat, not an "obee," and they were by now either slimmed down or dead. Most of them were dead. She was not fat. But she was clever. It took a special kind of mind to make something fattening out of a week's exchanges, and she had that kind of mind: creative, subtle. Hungry. Helen was a food artist.

She was well paid for her talent. Housewives would trade a week's allowance of tofu for a small bowl of Helen's marshmallow creme. Where do you get sugar! they would moan. Where do you get butter! And then would flee to avoid knowing. She wouldn't have told. If they knew how many apples or cherries it took to make a pint of simple syrup...how many fish she rendered, how many skinless chickens, to get precious oil...how many godforsaken hours it took to churn skimmed milk! No one could begin to pay that kind of price. Helen made no profit at all - and so her crime was worse than Aggravated Gluttony, far worse than Passing Contraband. It was, in fact, nearly Treason. Helen loved food. With a passion.

It was enough for her just to create felonious dishes. She didn't have to eat them - though, of course, sometimes she did. Helen was plump, perhaps - a bit pudgy, you might say - but in no way obese. And in her Spandies, those constrictive, totally illegal undergarments, she escaped detection.One day the madness would end, must end. TV stars would allow their cheeks to fill out, ever so slightly. Breasts would again become fashionable, not to say functional. Small children, watching their grandparents pause in mid-toe-touch to reminisce about ice cream, would demand to hear the beloved summer truck bell once more! Something would happen, someday, and she would have to be there to teach the new generation about cream, about cocoa, about fried clams. About the very word "fry," which had been stricken from every American dictionary.

When the National Diet was finally broken, Helen would be there, ready to cook. But it had been twenty-three years already and even Helen was beginning to forget what prosciutto tasted like. There had been people who were born and who died without ever knowing a Dove Bar. She had no heirs. She carried on alone.
Until at last a guilt-crazed customer led the Fat Police to the odor of vanilla wafting from Helen's kitchen vent. They were not gentle.
Continue reading here.

 

What Are You Looking At? The First Fat Fiction Anthology
by Donna Jarrell, Ira Sukrungruang

This anthology of thirty works by some of our best contemporary American writers looks at our perennial American obsession: fat. It's everywhere, all around you, and maybe even on you. Now, America's consuming passion at last has its own anthology. From Andre Dubus's delicious story of a young woman more comfortable in her fat body than her thin one ("The Fat Girl"), to Tobias Wolff's tale of bonding over pancakes ("Hunters in the Snow"), Dorothy Allison's poem about food and love ("Dumpling Child"), Peter Carey's surreal tale of a fat-man revolution ("The Fat Man in History"), Wesley McNair's poetic celebration "Fat Heaven", and George Saunders's "The 400-pound CEO," this bountiful feast of fiction and poetry will ensure no reader ever looks at fat quite the same way again.



Musical Fat

Listen to Louis Prima's "The Bigger the Figure" by clicking here and scrolling down to the samples.

Some of the songs with fat themes from Dimensions website. View all the titles and lyrics here.


Blues Masters
Big Fat Woman
Big Legged Woman
Built For Comfort
Little Bitty Man
Three Hundred Pounds of Joy

Rock & Pop
Another Fat Song
Big Fat Blonde
Dare To Be Fat
Davy the Fat Boy
Fat
Fat Bottomed Girls
Fat Boys (A Love Song)
Fat, Fat, Fat
Fat Gal
Fatso
Fatty Patty
Happy Being Fat
Hotdog In A Hallway
I Need A Miracle
Ro-ly Po-ly
Skin and Bone
Spit
Thunder Thighs
Tubby Tillie
Unskinny Bop
Whole Lotta Rosie


 

 



Fat Art

Fat History

Fat Science

Fat Culture

Fat Humor

Fat Museum